Arrochar Parish Church
History
This passage comes from
HISTORIC FAMILIES,
NOTABLE PEOPLE, AND MEMORABILIA,
OF THE LENNOX
by Donald MacLeod
published in Dumbarton in 1891
and printed for the author by A. Lawrance, Church Place.
Arrochar
The parish of Arrochar, which embraces a goodly portion of north-west Lochlomondside, was for long part of Luss. After its disjunction therefrom, Archibald McLachlan was presented as first minister of the charge by the patron, MacFarlane, laird of Arrochar, who, as only heritor within its bounds (save MacFarlane of Gartartan), had undertaken the burden of providing a kirk, manse, and glebe in the newly-erected parish. The origin of the name of the parish is disputed. Some say that it is derived from the Gaelic Arrar - a hilly country; and other some assert it takes its rise from Arachar - a measure of land.
Since 1682 there have ministered to the parishioners in holy things fourteen clergymen, including the present incumbent.
The kirk, kirkyard, and manse of Arrochar are situated at Tyness, about a mile south of the village. They form a beauteous combination, standing 'mong green fields at the base of the range of the rugged hills which separate Lochlong from Lochlomond.
Fronting the sacred edifice, the loch stretches its dark hill o'ershadowed waters for many a league, and directly opposite the places of graves Ben Arthur, dark of hue and rugged of mien, towers up proudly, having as apex that weird auld carle the Cobbler, and these give a sublime aspect to the entrance of dreary, dark Glencroe. This glen has as its southerly termination the westerly-trending range of hills, at the feet of which lies in deep repose the richly wooded promontory on which Ardgarten House stands, the beloved Highland home of MacGregor of Glencroe, a native of Luss, known world-wide as the popular mine host of the Royal Hotel, Edinburgh. His estate, as I have been informed, belonged of old to the MacGregors, but these were hunted out of it when the clan was nameless and proscribed. Now a member of the clan Gregor has re-conquered it, and it once more owns a MacGregor as lord.
In this connection it is worthy of mention that the laird of Glencroe's deceased brother, James, who erstwhile was proprietor of the Queen's Hotel, Glasgow, purchased the Glengyle estate, Loch Katrine, a very ancient patrimony of the MacGregors, and in his family it still remains.
The present kirk of the parish, which is a fine specimen of the Gothic architecture of its era, was built in 1847, in near proximity to where its predecessor stood, the ruined grey walls of which are still to be seen enclosing a place of sepulture, wherein, among others, are buried all that is mortal of the Rev. D. MacFarlane, the genial minister of the parish from 1844 to his death in 1869, and his great friend, Mr. John McNab, Arrochar Hotel. Mr. McNab was a native of Blair Athole. He was for a long period the popular steward of Dumbarton steamers. In 1865 he leased the hotel of Arrochar and sheep farm connected therewith. Two years before his decease, which occurred about seven years ago, he an attack of an apoplectic nature, which enfeebled him so much that he had arranged to retire soon from active life and live privately at Tarbet. After a renewed attack of his old complaint, he quietly passed into the silent land, aged 65. He was a much-loved, honourable man, and full of pawky humour. He is survived by Mrs. McNab, three sons and a daughter.
Before leaving Lochlong-side for that of Lochlomond, I have thought it right to give a short biographical sketch of the esteemed minister of the parish,
REV. JAMES DEWAR, M.A.
The minister of Arrochar is son of an erstwhile schoolmaster of that parish. Having received a good education at home, young Dewar was sent to the University of Glasgow to study for the ministry. After finishing his studies, he obtained license from the Presbytery of Glasgow on the 8th. January, 1851. For some months, however, before he became a licensed preacher, he was employed as missionary under the Rev. D. Jamieson, of St. Paul's, Glasgow. Mr. Dewar next became assistant to the Rev. Dr. Norman MacLeod (old Norman), of St. Columba's, Glasgow. After acting in that capacity for a short time, the Duke of Argyll presented him to the church and parish of Kilmodan at the unanimous request of the parishioners, and he was ordained to that charge in September, 1851. There he continued until May, 1869, when his native parish became vacant, and to it he was presented by the late Sir James Colquhoun, Bart. Mr. Dewar is a good Gaelic scholar, and preaches with as much fluency in that language as he does when he is discoursing in English, so that his services are in request over a considerable area.
About two miles from Arrochar, across the isthmus which divides Lochlomond from Lochlong, and not far from the margin of the former, in a quiet glen amid the majesty of hills, beautiful for situation, there stands, near the road and immediately behind the Tarbet Free Church,
BALLYHENAN BURIAL PLACE.
So far as it known, no chapel, down to a very recent date, ever stood on or near the spot to account for a place of sepulture being there. It is the general belief that its origin as such took place many centuries ago after a bloody encounter between rival clans, when the slain were there deposited in the bosom of their mother earth, all gory and clad in their tartan array. It is a picturesque burying place that of Ballyhenan.
One of the finest tombstones in the place of graves is erected to the memory of the late Mr. McPherson, Hotel Keeper, Tarbet, father of the present esteemed tenant of the hostelry.
On the south-east corner of the graveyard, which exhibits in picturesque combination billowy mounds and quaint, moss-covered tombstones, there stands a grey granite monument about eight feet in height, surmounted by an elegant draped urn. The ground in front is carefully tended by loving hands. The inscription on the tombstone runs as follows: - "In loving memory of Alexander MacPherson, Tarbet, Lochlomond. Died 9th. Nov., 1861. Elizabeth, his daughter, died 29th. October, 1862; and Janet Cameron, his widow, died at Stirling, 20th. February, 1882. 'Her children arise up and call her blessed.' And Janet Milligan, wife of A.H. MacPherson, Tarbet Hotel, died on the 6th. February, 1889, aged 41 years. 'I know that my Redeemer liveth.' 'Them also which sleep in Jesus will God bring with him,'"
Mr. Alexander MacPherson was born at Laggan, Inverness-shire, in 1804, his father being a farmer. After receiving a fair education, and doing a spell of work on his father's farm, he began hotel keeping, first in Perth, then in Blair Athole. In 1854 he removed from thence to Tarbet Hotel, Lochlomondside, where he remained until his death. Mr. MacPherson was a man of great push and energy. He was a well-read man, especially in the domain of history, and on literary matters corresponded, amongst others, with the late Sir Archibald Allison, Bart., the historian, and with the Messrs Blackwood, his publishers. At his death, the subject of this memoir was 57 years of age, and left a family of four sons, four daughters, and a widow, as also a host of friends, to mourn his departure.
It may be stated that there is a somewhat pretentious white marble enclosed tombstone on the west side of the lace of graves, erected to the memory of the lairds MacMurrich of Stuckgown, whose history is narrated further on; and it is also worthy of note that near the entrance gate there is a stone of memorial over the grave of a blacksmith, with a goodly sized anvil and other objects carved on same.
The minister of the Free Church, incidentally noticed above, is one who for the last decade has taken a warm interest in the spiritual and temporal advancement of the people among whom his lot is cast.
REV JOHN R. ELDER
was born at Edinburgh fifty years ago, son of Rev. Dr. Elder sometime minister of St. Paul's Church, Edinburgh, latterly of West Church, Rothesay. Moderator of Free Church General Assembly, 1871. Educated at Rothesay and Edinburgh. M.A. of Edinburgh University. Licensed in 1867 by Free Presbytery of Dunoon. Assistant at Inverurie, Aberdeenshire, and in St. Matthew's Church, Glasgow. Minister of Free Church, Cromarty for thirteen years. Minister of Free Church, Arrochar, since April, 1882. The reverend gentleman, it may be stated, is a member of the School Board, also of the Parochial Board of Arrochar Parish.
The great historic family of Arrochar is
THE MACFARLANES OF THAT ILK.
The burial place of this ancient family was Luss. The land knoweth the family as its lord no longer. They traced their descent to Gilchrist, fourth son of Alwyn, earl of Lennox, who obtained a grant of land in the reign of Alexander II. His son Duncan succeeded him, and he had a son Malduin, by his cousin Matilda, daughter of Malcolm, fourth Earl of Lennox. Malduin was father of Bartholomew, in the Gaelic Pharlan, and he in all probability was the chief after whom the clan was named. The early history of this clan is one of turbulence and bloodshed. Their raids, however, seem to have been more in the direction of harrying and harassing their more lawless northern neighbours, than engaging in acts of hostility against their more law abiding southern ones. The earliest and principal stronghold of the clan Farlane was situated at Inveruglas, and it being destroyed in Cromwell's time, their chief had afterwards his residence at Tarbet and at Ellan Vhow, a lonely little isle on the north end of Lochlomond, where the ruins of his seat are still to be seen. Loch Sloy was the gathering place and slogan of the clan. On the death of the sixth Earl of Lennox without male issue, Malcolm MacFarlane became the representative of the male line of the family. He was son of the Bartholomew mentioned above, who, about 1344, obtained from his cousin David a confirmation of all the lands and liberties previously in possession of his family. His son and successor, Duncan, obtained a charter of the lands of Arrochar, and married Christian, daughter of Sir Colin Campbell of Lochow. There never failed the clan a chief to rule it, from that time down to about the end of the eighteenth century, when the estate of Arrochar while possessed by John MacFarlane, was brought to a judicial sale (in 1785), and purchased by Ferguson of Raith. John MacFarlane, the last chief, had several children.
When in Edinburgh recently, I had an hour to spare and went to spend it in Greyfriar's Churchyard, my object being to visit the grave of the last of the MacFarlanes of that ilk. I found it easily; it is situated at the south west corner of old Greyfriar's Church, right under the slab inserted in its wall to the memory of Allan Ramsay the poet. The MacFarlane memorial stone is of freestone, circular topped, and stands seven feet or so high. Within the circle the arms of the family are engraven, in bold relief, having over them the legend on a scroll, "This I'll defend," and beneath them the slogan of the clan "Loch Sloy." The slabs of stone contain the following inscription: "In memory of Janet MacFarlane, daughter of William MacFarlane of MacFarlane, Esq., died 2nd. Dec., 1821; and of her niece, Margaret Elizabeth MacFarlane, who died May 12, 1846, aged seventy nine years (not twenty nine, as given in a local history), being at the period of her decease the lineal representative of the ancient and honourable house of MacFarlane of that ilk." The slab containing the foregoing inscription has slipped out of its place, being parted from the monument, and now rests on the ground and against the stone in an upright position. To shew how strong the clannish feeling still exists, I was informed by the keeper of the graveyard that a MacFarlane, a common soldier quartered in Edinburgh Castle, came recently to the revered burial place with a tradesman to fix the inscription tablet into its original position, but to his great regret it had got twisted and could not be reinstated. As showing the increase of recent years in the value of Highland property, it may be stated that Ferguson of Raith in 1785 paid for the Arrochar estate the sum of £28,000. In 1821 it was sold to Sir James Colquhoun of Colquhoun and Luss, Bart., for £78,000.
When the MacFarlane family began to get into pecuniary difficulties, the Stuckgown portion of the Gartartan property was disposed of, which in the course of time led to the establishment on Lochlomondside of
THE MACMURRICHS OF STUCKGOWN.
The estate of Stuckgown was sold by Alexander MacFarlane of Gartartan, in 1718, to John Syme, flesher, burgess in Edinburgh. The property, in 1799, was acquired from his heirs by two brothers, John MacMurrich and Malcolm MacMurrich, merchants, Glasgow, who were at their decease succeeded in the ownership by their nephew James MacMurrich. He, in virtue of powers contained in a special Act of Parliament, disposed of the estate for £42,000 to the trustees of Sir James Colquhoun, of Colquhoun and Luss, Bart. The Stuckgown property split up the Colquhoun estate on west Lochlomondside in a most tantalizing way, and the late Sir James left instructions in his will to buy it up at any price if it ever came on to the market. The property for which such a long price was paid is an eminently attractive one. The recent laird of Stuckgown, who has a life-rent interest in one of the farms on the estate, still lives on the property.