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Arrochar Parish Church Visitors from Fargo |
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In Arrochar and Luss we are very proud of our link with the First Presbyterian Church of Fargo, North Dakota. Twice our Minister has visited Fargo, several times Gary (Fargo's Director of Music) has visited Luss and many members of the Fargo congregation have spent time with us in Scotland. Three years ago the Bell Choir from Fargo came and spent a memorable few days with us. This page records that visit. Saturday 7th. June, 2003 Twenty six friends from First Presbyterian Church, Fargo in North Dakota arrive at Glasgow Airport to spend a week in Scotland. The flight arrived fifteen minutes early from Newark and was on the ground at Glasgow by 7.45 a.m. Forty-five minutes later our intrepid adventurers stepped out into the Glasgow Terminal to be met by Dane and David (who was driving the bus).
First to arrive
Gary counts his flock A drive back to Luss where coffee was drunk at the Manse before setting off for homes in the parishes. After settling in most folk were back on the bus at one for a trip to Inveraray to visit Inveraray Castle, the Old Town Jail and the Arctic Penguin -- a floating museum of the days of sail and steam.
Then it was back to the Manse for food and song in a marquee in the garden. The sun shone and Gary sang accompanied by his guitar, as well as by Tom on guitar and accordion, Robert on accordion, Gordon on keyboard and later by Mark on bagpipes and by Ellie who sang a variety of Scottish songs. It wasn't a late night as everyone was very tired and tomorrow we have to be up bright and early!
The stew was good but what's all this Haggis?
Claudia demonstrates how to deal with the rooster! Sunday 8th. June This was an absolutely fabulous day. Gary ordered his key staff to be at the Church at Arrochar at 8 a.m. with everyone else on parade by 9 a.m. Gary slept in! Everyone else was dutifully on parade and the service at Arrochar was glorious. Emery spoke beautifully and we all really felt that Pentecost was here.
Emery delivers his Pentecost Message
The Bell Choir Then there was the rush down the lochside to Luss for another very special service which will be remembered and treasured by the Luss congregation.
Lunch followed in the Manse followed by a rehearsal for the concert in the evening. Following the rehearsal many went for walks up the glen (Vicki preferred to snooze gently on the sofa in the Manse lounge). The concert was a triumph - the bell-ringing, the singing and the organ playing were entrancing and a large audience applauded until their hands hurt. The Lord's Prayer, with Mary Beth on the new Church organ and Claudia on hand bells, was declared by many to be quite the most beautiful thing they had heard.
Claudia plays The Lord's Prayer A mood change occurred as everyone decanted to the Colquhoun Arms for refreshments before adjourning to bed with Gary's words 'Don't be late' ringing in their ears. (Mary Beth was overheard enquiring of Gary as to whether he had an alarm clock - tomorrow will tell!) Monday 9th. June There is, we are told, nothing so pleasing as a repentant sinner and this morning Gary was up, about and unbearable at half-past six! By half past eight the bus was already filling up and we were only a little late in setting off for Arrochar (Eve's party were the culprits but Gracia and Claudia are sure that it wasn't them).
The press corps were ever present From Arrochar we set off for Stirling and arrived at Stirling Castle where we were given two hours to explore. Some spent the time entirely in the Castle, others wandered off to visit Argyll's Lodging while some even managed to visit the Kirk of the Holy Rood with its beautiful 'Angel Window.'
King Robert the Bruce and friends
King Calvin and Queen Vicki
They wanted to be photographed in a fireplace! (in Argyll's Lodging)
The Church of the Holy Rood The lunch hour was spent in down-town Stirling. Some ate, others explored, most did both although there were still picnics being enjoyed on the bus as it arrived in Glasgow to visit the Burrell Collection - a wonderful assortment of items put together during the last century and donated to the City of Glasgow, the whole thing set in a glorious parkland. The sun was shining and we saw our first Highland Cow! Then it was back to the centre of Glasgow to find our Hotel, the Metro Inn, where Dane and Gary wrestled with management to try to get everyone booked in without the whole evening going by! Meanwhile some intrepid explorers had leapt into a passing taxi and added Glasgow Cathedral to their collection. The evening meal was special. It was at La Caprese, a small, ancient Scottish-Italian trattoria under Buchanan Street. Not only was the meal superb, but il padrone was a character and a half, throwing a cup of coffee over Calvin (or so he thought), giving Gracia a mouthwatering cappuccino (with no liquid in it at all) and encouraging Bob to tell funny stories while he plugged his ears with a napkin. For most of the three hours in the restaurant we were doubled over in laughter and when the lights went out it was not a power failure but a prelude to a loaf of bread with lighted candles being brought in to celebrate Betty's birthday.
La Caprese It was a thoroughly good evening and we didn't even notice the rain as we explored Sauchiehall Street on our way back to the hotel. There some camped out in the bar while most retired to bed. Tuesday 10th. June Bright and early it felt like, but actually this was a later start than yesterday. After a full Scottish breakfast in the hotel restaurant we embarked at 9 a.m. and set off north passing Luss (where Dane got off and Rachel got on) at 9.40 a.m. Then it was up to Tarbet and then off along the north Loch Lomond Road stopping a little more than briefly at Sandy Macpherson's Weaver's Cottage where the Tartan Plaids worn by the Choir were commissioned.
The weaver's loom A great deal of business was conducted in a short period of time before the bus continued north to the Green Welly Stop, and then on across the desolate expanse of Rannoch Moor and down through Glen Coe, stopping to learn about the massacre of the MacDonalds in 1693.
Glen Coe Lunch was at Ballachulish beside the western sea-lochs, and we travelled on to Oban interrupted only by "castle alerts" at Castle Stalker and Dunstaffnage. Time there to check in at the hotel and check out the town, the most popular destinations being the local distillery, to learn about the origins and production of the Scottish national beverage, and McCaig's folly, a spectacular view-point high above the bay. Gary went scuba-diving. Excellent evening meal and, in the case of the tour-guide, a spectacularly early night.
Oban as night fell Wednesday 11 th. June Today to the edge of Europe! David, wearing his kilt in honour of the occasion, collected us early and we boarded the MacBrayne ferry "The Isle of Mull" for the fifty-minute journey from the mainland past the islands of Kerrera and Lismore to Mull. The bus took us the hour's drive across the island past mountains, scattered farms and groups of houses, through the only "village" in the south of the island (called Bunessan, the home of the composer of the hymn-tune, "Morning has Broken") to Finnphort, on the far western coast -- and the sun was shining! This was as far as the bus could go, so we disembarked and carried the instruments and music aboard the small ferry across to the Isle of Iona, and thence through fields and along a track to the abbey for the concert, and the First Presbyterian Church of Fargo's contribution to the age-old and continuing tradition of the spread of Christianity from this ancient and holy place -- and how beautiful and how appreciated the music was, the abbey church full of visitors captured by the bells and voices.
Playing in the Abbey
Ancient walls Not long enough, unfortunately, to explore the island as it deserves -- but time enough to experience the peace and sanctity of this remote outpost of the Celtic world:
Iona from the sea we carried our gear back in the boat over the Sound of Iona and recrossed the island of Mull, stopping only for a photo opportunity involving a highland cow and calf, who gave the impression of turning out to pose for tourists whenever required.
Leaving Iona On to the mainland ferry at Craignure -- another "castle alert" for the brooding presence of Duart Castle, home of the Lords of the Isles -- and a wonderful sail in the evening sunshine back to food and rest in our second and equally comfortable Oban hotel -- once we'd found the luggage we left there in the morning, that is!
And back to Oban Thursday 12th. June Away from Oban today, and off across Scotland, west to east coasts. "Castle alert" -- Kilchurn Castle on Loch Awe -- and thence to Callendar, sustained admirably by a stewardess refreshment service conducted by Gary, Anne and an amazingly athletic Claudia (hope the bruise has faded). David took us past Linlithgow and the palace in which Mary, Queen of Scots was born, and to Queensferry, the ancient crossing-place over the Firth of Forth, now spanned by magnificent road and rail bridges.
The famous bridges On to Edinburgh and a dramatic arrival at our hotel, where no sooner had we entered than the fire alarms went off and the rain came down in buckets as we stood in the car-park for safety. No serious problems, however; just an extremely competent and welcoming hotel staff, free tea and coffee to warm us up, and towels to dry us down, before David gave us a brief tour of the centre of Edinburgh on our way to the High Kirk of St. Giles -- usually known as St. Giles Cathedral -- where the instruments were unloaded and the party dispatched to enjoy the Castle and other sites (not the royal Holyrood Palace, unfortunately, as Themselves were in residence and no visitors allowed), and Gary exercised his charm on the staff of the St. Giles Coffee Shop -- with no success-- and a local hotel -- with great success -- for the loan of tables for the bells, culminating in the sight of the largest skateboard in Europe being manoeuvred up the Royal Mile and the front steps of the Cathedral.
Outside the High Kirk of St. Giles Everyone returned for a rehearsal before the 4.00pm concert, which enjoyed as much, if not more success, due to the large number of tourists and visitors in the great building, who turned from their sight-seeing to listen and be part of the occasion. At the end, the Cathedral Events Organiser came to invite the group to return whenever they were able.
Playing in St. Giles So -- how do you follow such a musical triumph? By more sightseeing, shopping, or even descending to the depths of the ancient mediaeval houses and streets buried under the foundations of the present city of Edinburgh. Oh, and of course, meeting for another Italian meal, this time at Giuliano's, one of the most popular eateries in the city.
Eating at Giuliano's But why had almost everyone disappeared by 9.30? To join a ghost-walk, naturally, and explore the city's spookiest graveyards as night fell, after which, it was rumoured, a number of the party became involved in what can only be described as a military karaoke session in the famous Deacon Brodie Tavern next door to the Scottish Parliament House. We believe everyone got back to the hotel. Friday 13th. June Bright and early - well, to be honest not quite as early as had been hoped (Anne had got lost in the hotel!) the Fargo party climbed into David's bus and drove north out of the city of Edinburgh, across the Forth Road Bridge (with the wonderful view of the old railway bridge alongside) and into the Kingdom of Fife. The bus was making good progress now, anxious to get to St. Andrews just as quickly as possible so that the golfing party could make their tee times a little after ten o'clock. Just in time the bus swept into the town and along the West Sands picking up Dane on the way. (Dane had driven from Loch Lomond to spend the day with us). Gary led the gentlemen golfers to the Jubilee Course where they hired clubs and bought sufficient balls (just) to get them round a Scottish Links Course. Meanwhile the lady golfers (Michelle and Margaret) set off for their appointment at the nine-hole course. They'd missed their tee time but the obliging staff fitted them in a bit later on so there was just time for a coffee before setting off round the links. The large party of Fargo tourists now set off with Dane first to explore the West Sands as we made our way back into the medieval town. We stopped at the eighteenth green of the Royal and Ancient (the home of golf) and watched as a party of American golfers completed their round - we applauded one particularly fine putt. Then we strolled along the Scores, stopping at the Martyrs Monument erected in memory of the Scottish Reformers who died in the flames in St. Andrews in the early years of the sixteenth century. Further along the Scores we made our way into the main quadrangle of the United College of St. Salvator and St. Leonard and visited the ancient University Chapel containing the grave of Bishop Kennedy.
The Quadrangle of the United College The carved seats and the beautiful windows will appear in many of our photographs:
I could do with a seat like this at First Pres! Now we walked through the grounds of St. Salvator's Hall and back to the Scores where we quickly reached the Castle and were taken on a tour by a guide provided by Historic Scotland.
St. Andrews Castle
We heard of Kings and Queens, of Bishops, Cardinals and Scottish Reformers. We were shown the famous Bottle Dungeon, went down the Mine and Counter-mine through which invaders had attacked the Castle and saw the site of the former Castle Kitchens and Great Hall and then we were released for lunch. Set loose on the town we scattered and explored, meeting again in the early afternoon in the Cathedral Grounds. Fit once more, some of us set about climbing to the top of St. Rule's Tower, from which there was a glorious view of the ancient medieval town. Others visited the museum, walked through the grounds or examined the graves of famous golfers such as Tom Morris, the nineteenth-century Tiger Woods. Then it was down to the harbour and a walk to the end of the pier, the adventurous ones among us (Michele, certainly) walking back along the high parapet along which students traditionally walk during the Sunday morning post-chapel service pier walk. Along the harbour, back through the Pends and along South Street we went -- ending up at St. Mary's College where, Dane informed us, all the best Presbyterian ministers are trained, certainly those which serve the Church of Scotland. We saw the tree planted by Mary, Queen of Scots and visited one of the ancient rooms in the College (founded in 1537). It was now time to make our way back to the bus which was still on the West Sands. Amazingly everyone made it - even Anne who had spent most of the day lost but who seemed to have had a good time in spite of it all. The bus set off, not directly for Loch Lomond but down the coast of Fife, visiting the picturesque East Neuk - beautiful harbours, lovely old towns and villages and ending up at Anstruther. Rachel had driven on ahead and had ordered twenty-nine fish suppers which we ate in the open air, sitting by the harbour.
Anstruther after Fish and Chips The salt and the vinegar, the fresh air and the sea gulls - it was a lovely end to a super day. All that remained was to get back home and so we set off with David at the wheel. As we passed Stirling, Gary remarked that it was good to feel that they knew where they were -- only a week and they knew everything about Scotland! Back in Luss, Jimmy and Alastair, Robbie and Eve were waiting to collect their charges and to take them home to bed. It would be an early start tomorrow because the plane wouldn't wait for any latecomers! Saturday 14th. June Up early and into the bus which took us to the airport. Soon Scotland would be just a memory!
Homeward bound!
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